Hong Kong: part 1

All OK in China, though it’s taken me a full week since our return to get to this first post about Hong Kong.  A busier and/or slower week than usual plus our internet connection has slowed to a crawl.  Again.  And is really getting on.  my.  last.  nerve.

Hong Kong.  Wow.

I was in Hong Kong 26 years ago as a college student (ouch) and loved it.  Now I remember why.  Hard to sum up, but I think it’s San Francisco squared.  And it’s China. And it’s London.  A great combination of Chinese and Western.  It’s even a bit of Hawaii (same latitude).  For Art and me, it’s everything we want in a “perfect city” and our time there was way too short.

In addition to too short a time, Art wasn’t feeling 100% and so we were not on our usual high-impact “adsventure” track of sight seeing.  He’s in the middle of a “polymyalgia rheumatica” bout (maybe, who knows, but this is what was diagnosed after 4 visits to the ER, lots of bloodwork, and a rheumatologist consult), and is slower than usual, but back on steroids this week and feeling much better.  Of course, this blows his chance to ride in the Tour in July…

In spite of a slower pace (which we all needed anyway) we saw a ton and I was surprised how today’s Hong Kong is pretty much the same Hong Kong I saw all those years ago. Surprising since the Brits gave Hong Kong back to China 14 years ago… and I wondered what would happen.  Luckily, in one of its wiser moves, China basically left Hong Kong alone, creating one country (China) with two governments (mainland versus HK).  It’s treated as a separate country, so our flight was an international flight, and we had to pass through immigration and customs both coming and going.  The language of Hong Kong is Cantonese, not Mandarin, but everyone speaks some measure of English so it’s super easy to get around.  Once there you can actually access the internet with no restrictions.  You can turn on the TV and watch the BBC or Nat Geo or major sports.  Imagine that.  We’re not a “big on TV” family, but we’d had no English-speaking TV or news for 12 weeks and Art is totally jonesing for his sports.  TV aside, the Chinese who live in HK live way differently than mainland Chinese, but that is another story for another day.  For us, HK was mostly just an awesome city.

We had two rooms at the Bishop Lei International House, a sweet hotel in the “mid-levels.”  Hong Kong sits on a steep hillside overlooking the sea and the “mid-levels” is the area literally halfway up… mostly fancy apartment buildings and private homes, but also the hopping Soho area where there are infinite great restaurants and hip shops and galleries (side note: and after the Bishop Lei, the kids know what to expect in Paris one day when we tell them the hotel rooms will be small but the neighborhood awesome). We took the 120 year old Peak Tram up to to Victoria’s Peak, used the world’s longest covered escalator (daily), took a glass bottom cable car ride from Lantau Island up to Ngong Ping and the Tian Tan Buddha, ate at a monastery, explored the fishing village of Tai O, took several ferry rides and several double decker bus rides, went to Stanley and Kowloon and the Jade Market.  And ate.  A lot.  Mexican, Italian, New Zealand burgers, and Bubba Gump’s… because as good as Chinese food is, we’re all craving variety*.  And yes, we even watched the royal wedding on TV since it was on at 6pm and the girls were totally intrigued. [*to be fair: you can get variety in Beijing, just not close to where we live]

The weather was warm and mostly misty/drizzly, plus a little humid… and really felt like Hawaii.  Especially on the outer islands which are hilly and dense with tropical vegetation… not to mention resorts… and amazing homes.  It’s one of the wealthiest cities in the world… and there is much in it to knock your socks off.

There was so much that we wanted to do, but didn’t get to (more of the islands, Soho and the mid-levels, the zoological gardens, swimming at the beaches, Ocean Park Amusement Park with a roller coaster that hangs off the side of a cliff, a “junk” ride, high tea at the Pennisula, etc.) that we’ll give ourselves at least a week next time.  You know… if we ever recover enough from the Spring of 2011 to actually come back to Asia one day…

Here are the first of the misty/foggy pictures.

Great airport with spankin' new high speed trains that zip you to central HK...

Fat Angelo's...

The Peak Tram is a great way to get a look at the city...

Great (albeit misty) views from Victoria's Peak...

Lush hillsides with high end living...

Something about great cities surrounded by water that just make them that much more special...

Me and Elle Bean...

Art catching the view...

 Hong Kong was a British colony for 150 years, and it shows… 

You can stroll for hours along the paths at Victoria's Peak. I think you can walk all the way back down if you wanted to... (next time)

Spidergirl climbing walls again...

I was here 26 years ago and it's just exactly the same...

This was not here 26 years ago, but the ceasar salad (actually anything with romaine, arugula or spinach) was calling to me...

Hello gelato...

Exploring Soho...

Great hood...

The original Anthropologie shop?

Looking down same street...

These skinny side streets with great eats remind me so much of San Francisco...

That's the mid-levels escalator on the left... all told it's about a mile long... a series of covered, moving stairs, plus pedestrian bridges crossing over the streets. In HK it's considered a form of public transportation, and moves 55,000 people a day...

Walking back to the Bishop Lei...

I think my kids are enjoying being "city kids" but maybe that's just wishful thinking...

Took the train to Lantau Island where we boarded the "crystal cabin" (glass floor) cable car to Ngong Ping. Art is slow, but happy on this day...

We've lost track of how many cable cars we've ridden...

View as we leave Lantau...

Takes about a half hour to get up to where the big Buddha is, and it's not a straight shot. This ride has a sharp left turn in it... then climbs so high that visibility is reduced to zero.

Meditative path below the cable car spotted as we began decent... maybe reserved for the monks; we saw no one on it...

Raining when we reached the top... you can see the Tian Tan Buddha up on the hill behind Art's shoulder...

You wind through this quaint little "village" to get to the Buddha and the monastery (reminded us of Solvang, Calif)...

Singing in...

270 steps to the top (which is about the same as taking the steps to our 17th floor apartment)...

Cece and Tian Tan...

Made of Bronze... and over 100 feet high...

Right hand raised means a blessing/removing affliction (and note the ear lobes that symbolize perception)...

Surrounding the Tian Tan Buddha are these bronze statues making offerings...

There are 6 or 8 of these, each with a different offering...

Also at Ngong Ping are the Po Lin Temple and Monastery...

Little altar at the entrance to the temple...

The vegetarian lunch (prepared by the monks) we ate at the monastery...

Obligatory incense lighting...

Corn we passed on our way to the bus...

From Ngong Ping we hopped local bus #21 to get to Tai O.  This little fishing village was my favorite surprise of our Hong Kong trip.  To be continued…

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