Spring Break. Xi’an: part 1

A really busy week here in Beijing and I’m falling behind with my posts. Also kind of feels like the blog has turned into an endless stream of trip pictures with little about our actual day-to-day life in China… of which there is still so very much to tell…

But our “side trips” just sort of fell when they did (i.e., close together), and I have this need to record them and share what we’ve seen. So bear with me. We have another trip in a couple of weeks, but after that a long stretch at “home” in Beijing. During that stretch there will be more time for “regular” life updates…

For the second half of the girls’ spring break, we flew from Chengdu to Xi’an: the ancient capital of China. We went to Xi’an (pronounced “she ahn”) primarily to see the Terra Cotta Warriors. These are the 6,000 to 8,000 clay, full-size warriors that were buried underground (in standing, ready-for-battle position) about 2,200 years ago. The discovery of the warriors (by a Chinese farmer digging a well) is old news. I think you don’t need me to tell you all about it. Well… We saw the warriors (displayed in three large archeological “pits”) and learned about Emperor Qin and why he had those 8,000 soldiers cast and buried. Historians actually do know how and why he did this: 700,000 Chinese laborers spent almost 40 years building this army in Qin’s mausoleum as defense for him in his afterlife. You know. Just in case…

It was indeed all jaw-dropping and wonderful and I’m so glad we saw this “wonder of the world.” But we also did a lot more in Xi’an, including a visit to a 1,300 year old Islamic mosque and a glorious 9-mile bike ride on top of the ancient Xi’an city wall (one of the oldest such walls in China)… on groovy Chinese tandem bikes, with the sun shining and few other riders around. Our ride that morning will remain one of my favorite memories of the entire trip… as will the Chinese couple who gave the girls hard boiled eggs to eat while we were taking a break at the Big Goose Pagoda…

Here’s the first day in Xi’an (before the warriors and the bike ride)… with lots more pics to follow…

(note: apostrophes in captions keep disappearing then reappearing… no idea why this is…)

Airport food while waiting for an early flight to Xi'an. Rice for breakfast. And a hug.

First stroll in Xi'an, on our way to the bell tower and the drum tower. Someone needed an ice cream fix...

And encouragement from sis...

So many old building are being torn down in X'ian. "Speculation" that more farmers will move to the city has led to the building of hundreds of high rises, though most of the finished apartments appear to be sitting empty. Eerie...

Xi'an street scene. Through the trees, you can see a blue Walmart sign. This is the second one we've seen (the first was in Kunming). We've yet to enter one.

Figuring things out as we go... So far weve managed to do all of our own trip planning, transportation, hotels, ticketing, etc... and always end up right where we want to be...

At the bell tower... another big bell and another big fish clapper (just like the one in Kunming...)...

Xi'an scene from the bell tower... (hazy pics in Xi'an = pollution. A serious problem throughout China.)

Note shopping mall behind them. I think China has as many shopping malls as it does people...

Quilt image 15...

Bell tower door panel. You can't spend time in China and not fall in love with this shade of red...

Ceiling inside the bell tower...

She likes it too...

Everyone is checking out the big fish...

Waiting outside because the air inside was so thick with cigarette smoke you could choke a kid. Lots of smokers in this town... even inside Starbucks...

The lower, outside base of the Xi'an drum tower...

Xi'an drummers...

Great, big, fabulous drums... irresistible...

Normally a drummer, but on this day a poser...

Entering the Muslim neighborhood in Xi'an...

Xi'an cutie...

Arriving at the "Xi'an Great Mosque." Parts of it are being restored, but most of it is intact... and serene. Its a lovely spot in the middle of a thick, noisy place...

The most spatial kid I know, Elle is our official "map girl" in China...

Great Mosque 2...

Spring...

Great Mosque 3...

Leaning against a centuries old tablet with Arabic inscriptions... reading her little guidebook about the mosque. Looks posed, but it wasn't. This is Peach...

Great Mosque 5

The mosque was quiet... not a lot of visitors when we were there... but a group of college students sketching fascinated Cece and Elle. Cece in particular has been drawing more ever since...

Old enameled art depicting the Kabba in Mecca...

Dont get me started on these blue roofs...

Sun setting...

The Great Mosque covers quiet a bit of ground and includes dozens of buildings... hallways, courtyards, secluded nooks...

Peace...

These memorial gateways are found throughout the grounds... each one is unique...

He was collecting fish... by hand...

... the fish... (I love this bowl)

On her own path...

Now theres' a door...

The Worship Hall. Only Muslim men may enter. While we were hanging around, a kind Turkish man emerged from the Hall. He saw my camera and said: "here... give me your camera... I will take you some pictures." He took it, kicked his shoes off again, and went back into the Hall... snapped about 10 pictures inside. Shots we would not have seen otherwise. We then had a marvelous chat. The Kabba? He said something like this: "You know... the Kabba... it is just an empty cube. God is in your heart. You pray what you believe in your heart."